I used an offset screwdriver to tighten it as much as possible. I started the screw with a needle nose plier. I tapped this hole for a 6-32 brass screw. I drilled through the flashlight case between the hole for the switch and the "O" ring seal in a place that would be hidden by the flashlight head when screwed back onto the flashlight. I cut the wire at about 1 1/2 to 2 inches in length.
I tinned the end of a piece of stranded wire about 20 gauge with solder and then heated the solder on the follower to make a good solder joint with the wire. While the Switch Sub Assembly was still outside the flashlight barrel I used my electric solder gun to place a little solder on the brass follower. I drilled a hole into the plastic Switch Sub Assembly between the ends of the snap ring. I removed the head of the flashlight with the reflector and lens. First I removed the rear end cap and the batteries. I went to work at removing the large snap ring. At this point I believed there might be a shoulder toward the rear end of the barrel that would keep me from sliding the Switch Sub Assembly out of the rear end, but that proved to be false. But, I encountered a big snap ring instead of a threaded retaining ring. Then you can slide the Switch Sub Assembly out of the lamp end of the flashlight barrel. Next you use a small hex wrench to loosen a set screw deep inside the switch that digs into the inner surface of the barrel. Then you pry the rubber switch seal (# 15 in the exploded diagram from the web site in step 1) from the barrel of the flashlight. The switch bridges between these two electrical contact points.Īccording to the web site linked in step 1, you use a special tool to unscrew a retaining ring. There is a corresponding contact point directly across the opening for the switch, which is below the spring under the bulb socket. Notice the contact for the battery tip that runs through the bottom of the Switch Sub Assembly. You will need to remove the Switch Sub Assembly from the Maglite, but more about that later. As the head of the flashlight is turned, the angle at which the reflector is cut allows the bulb socket to move so the beam of light can be focused from wide angle to a narrow spot. Part of the reflector rides on the brass follower. The bulb socket is spring loaded and can move up and down. I wanted a solution that is more durable, or that I can replace myself without ordering parts from Maglite. When you are finished, the total cost will be almost as much as a new flashlight. Be aware you will need a couple of special tools, too. It is possible to order the switch or the Switch Sub Assembly at this web site. I left most of it in the neutral tones rendered in Google Sketch Up for clarity. The Switch Sub Assembly is made of black plastic. Although two are shown, there are actually four.
I am recreating vital steps with graphics. I made a graphic rather than a photo because I was very uncertain about how this project would turn out. This is a graphic I did of the Switch Sub Assembly after it has been removed from inside the flashlight's barrel.
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